When the first atomic bomb exploded over Hiroshima on 6 Aug 1945 the city became an immediate symbol for the horrors of war. Today Hiroshima (pop. 1 086 000) has several moving reminders of that day of utter devastation.

The centerpiece is called the A-Bomb Domeits the skeleton of a domed building that survived the blast. Across the street is Peace Park where youll find the Cenotaph for the Victims (it contains all of their names) and the Atomic Bomb Museum. The museums photographs are the most compelling (and perhaps horrifying): They show the actual effects of radiation on human flesh.

The most moving monument is the Childrens Peace Memorial which celebrates the desire for long life and happiness traditionally expressed in the folding of paper cranes. You may see groups of schoolchildren adding more paper cranes strung together in rainbow garlands to the millions that already surround the base of the memorial.

In the years since the war Hiroshima has been rebuilt into a fairly typical industrial city (Mazda has a huge factory there). It has covered shopping arcades lively department stores (with ardent consumers) and a helpful information office. The city's streetcar system is not extensive but it is efficient and provides announcements of stops in both Japanese and English.

Miyajima island lies just off the coast from Hiroshimaa short ferry ride from the end of the streetcar line. The main reasons to go there are solitude the view and the Shrine of Itsukushima which is built on wooden piers over the water. The shrines torii (the huge T-shaped gate at the entrance to a Shinto shrine) is out at the head of a bayits orange paint stunning against the blue water has made this one of the most photographed places in Japan. (To get the best pictures be there when the tides in.) The shrine was constructed hundreds of years ago when the island was considered holy and commoners could approach it only by boat. Today travelers often find lodging on Miyajima while visiting Hiroshima. They dont leave the island without sampling the locally made crackers.

Only 30 mi/45 km from Hiroshima on the JR Sanyo railway line in Iwakuni is the most famous bridge in Japan the Kintai-kyo. Built in 1673 the Brocade Sash Bridge is composed of five gracefully arched spans. The bridge was originally meant for the use of samuraiall others were forbidden to step upon it. Vestiges of the Edo-period castle town can be seen in the vicinity of the bridge.

Two nearby villages are famous for their pottery. Bizen has been producing its distinct deep brown pottery for the past 1 000 years. Hagi only began crafting pottery 300 years ago when master craftsmen were kidnapped from Korea to learn the secrets of their art. Hiroshima is 175 mi/280 km west of Osaka.