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At first glance, Gangtok, Sikkim's bustling capital, is like most Indian cities much noisier and much dirtier than you might care for. A little way into town, however, the city reflects more of the peace and tranquility you might expect from its picturesque setting in the Himalayan foothills.
Gangtok is a transit hub as well as one of the few places in Sikkim where you can check your e-mail. Most of the tourist-friendly hotels, restaurants, and services run along MG road or Tibet Road. Popular amongst the backpacker set is the clean, friendly Modern Central Lodge on Tibet Road, while those looking for isolation make the steep climb to the government-run Sinolochu Lodge above the city just below the entrance to Enchey Goompa (monastery).
Most people stay in Gangtok for only a day or two on the way to the more picturesque Sikkimese villages of Pelling or Yuksom. Gangtok also has access to the beautiful Rumtek monastery as well as Chaggu/Tsomgo Lake about two hours away by jeep.