The City of Kings Lima (pop. 6 415 000) was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535 on 6 January the Epiphany (Feast of the Kings). It was designed to be a purely Spanish city in a conquered territory but it has turned out to be a rather drab and patched-together placeespecially after 450 years of earthquakes.

The highlight of the capital is the outstanding collection of Incan artifacts in the basement vault of the privately owned Museo de Oro del Peru or Peruvian Gold Museum (upstairs is the Arms Museum an incredible collection of weapons ranging from spears to a Gatling gun). As extensive as the gold collection is its sobering to realize that these are merely crumbsthe Spanish melted down or looted the best pieces. Also visit the Museo de la Nacion (National Museumtours available in English) one of the largest museums in South America. Divided into exhibits looking at the past present and (imagined) future of Peru it includes a model of the gold-laden tombs recently excavated at Sipan and reproductions of some of Perus best archaeological sites.

Lima has 20 more museums including the Museum of the Inquisition (torture instruments university library and carved ceiling) the National Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (pottery textiles and stone figures from all of Perus past cultures) and the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera (55 000 ceramic works including erotic pre-Columbian pottery). Churches to see include the Cathedral on the Plaza de Armas (it holds the remains of Pizarro) the Baroque Church of San Francisco (beautiful hand-carved ceilings and catacombs containing 70 000 skeletonstake the guided tour) and La Merced (site of the first mass in Lima it has a lovely cloister and chancel). Other sights include the Palacio Torre Tagle (the marvelous example of colonial architecture now serves as the Foreign Ministry) Casa de Aliaga (built in 1535 and still occupied by the same family!) and Casa de Oquendo (where General San Martin stayed after proclaiming Perus independence).

On the Plaza de Armas (government center since 1535) is the Palacio de Gobierno (Presidential Palace where a changing of the guard takes place daily at 12:45 pm) the Archbishops Palace (notice the ornate balconies) and the central bronze fountain. Barrio Chino (Chinatown) merits a visit at dinnertime. Should time allow include the Puente de Piedra a 530-ft/162-m stone bridge built 200 years ago.

A visit to the Rimac district should include the Convento de los Descalzos (amazing colonial convent with paintings and other art). 

Nearby is the town of Pachacamac which has some of the best pre-Incan ruins (allow at least a half day for this excursion). The Temple of the Virgins the Temple of the Sun and the excellent preserved irrigation systems are among its attractions. Be sure to include the seaside suburbs of Miraflores (a youthful place, away from the hubbub and smog of the central district) and Barranco (nightlife and the center for performing arts in Peru) in your itinerary. Plan only two nights in Limaits not really a highlight in a beautiful country like Peru. In fact, if time is of the essence, tour through Lima as fast as possible and go to Cusco or Aguas Calientes (Machu Pichu).