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dealchecker’s guide to Lugo

Lugo is a very atmospheric city built by the Romans in the 3rd century and dominated by its city walls. These run for a distance of over two kilometres, with a walltop sentry path from which splendid views can be had of the city, the Los Ancares scenery, the hills of the county of Guntín and the Miño river valley. Dating from these times too are the thermal springs at the Balneario de Lugo (Lugo spa) on the banks of the Miño.

A walk around the wall is highly recommended. From here you can see some of the oldest rooftops. However some of the buildings are horrible modern and grey, but you dont have to look at them!

The museum is loaded with all sorts of finds and artefacts from the region. Although the paintings are not to every bodies taste it is recommended that you visit the sections in the old cloisters, with the remains of buildings from the Romans onwards. The old kitchen is worth a look as is the section on local archaeological finds. Some of these finds are pre history in origin and made of gold. There are two large Roman mosaics laid out so that you can see them from the floor above. The entrance fee to the museum is free.

Exit the museum and you stand in a square of no real note, but turn right and walk towards the row of shops. Upon reaching the street turn left. On the right hand side you will see a small shopping mall, which used to be a Pazo. Enter the mal and take the stairs down one flight. Do not use the escalator. On this level there is a sort of furniture shop towards the rear of the mall. Walk right to the back of the shop and on the left hand side there is a piece of Roman road, which was uncovered when the mall was constructed. Every time they dig a hole in Lugo they find some sort of Roman remains.

If you go to the Vinotech (winebar) in the Rua do Miño you can see, under a glass floor, the remains of a Roman toilet and well. (Nice wine too!)

At the time or writing, in front of the Cathedral is an excavation which will allow you to see some Roman remains and the true depth of the old walls. However it is expected to be covered over soon.

The Cathedral is peaceful and not very busy, unlike Santiago. It is used quite a bit for pray so you should remain silent! It is typically Catholic with a Golden Alter, which is highly decorated. The inside is not so well lit adding to the sense of calm.

Just outside the city is the Celtic hill fort of Villadonga. It is about ¾ hour away on the road N640 to Ribadeo.

Market is held everyday and except Sunday. Go down stairs and you will see the local farmers trying to sell their produce.

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