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For the real Sardinia you should head for Nuoro. Located in the mountainous heartland of the island where the locals still speak Sardo, at the bottom of the Monte Ortobene, Nuoro has kept most of teh insular traditions intact; they include Eternal Bloodfeuds and the Art of Kidnapping.
The old wuarter of town is spread around the Corso Garibaldi. The main sights in the area is the Ethnographic Museum on Via Antonio Meru, with an incredible collection of Sardinian jewels, masks, carpets and other handicrafts.
A walk to the summit of the Monte Ortobene, almost 1000 meters high, gives you an stunning views over the town and the surrounding countryside.
Nuoro is an excellent starting point for taking trips to some of the other villages in the region. Orgoloso is famous for its mural paintings on the houses. Fonni, the highest village on the island, Mamoiada and Ottana have interesting festivals with strange processions that go back to pagan times.
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